Oh, woman, I feel like this is going to be a long post, so bear with me; we have a lot to cover!
I'll start off by saying that I was super intimidated to even start thinking abut refinishing furniture. Terrified of screwing up the process (that's how we learn!), make a mistake that couldn't be fixed (that's what paint is for!--a joke...mostly), or getting comfortable with it and having too many projects (that's a given anyway).
So I started off with the gateway drug of furniture restoration; Restor-a-Finish by Howard's. If you don't have any of this yet, run to your local hardware store and pick some up! It fixes most issues you could have with your natural wood finishes; heat rings, water marks, discolored spots, scratches, scuffs, paint splatters... pretty much anything superficial, this product will fix! So after dabbling with RAF, I decided to tackle bigger projects like sanding, staining, and sealing. These projects are more time consuming and involved, but opened up a whole new world of pieces I would have normally passed on.
In my last round of refinishing projects, I took on three mid century pieces (dresser, record cabinet, and desk) and make them like new again. Lucky for me, the dresser needed minimal work (nothing some RAF couldn't fix) but the other two needed to be sanded, stained, and sealed. I know people use strippers to take off old finishes, but I haven't come across any projected that have needed that drastic of a step yet. I find an electric sander takes care of most finishes and leaves a nice surface to stain/seal (plus strippers are super gross and require special disposal).
Ok, so let's break down what really goes into refinishing a piece of furniture:
1. Sanding/stripping
2. Staining
3. Finishing
That's really it!
SANDING
This step is necessary in most refinishing projects (unless you're just going to slap some RAF onto a piece). Sanding give you a clean and smooth canvas to work with and is the most important step. Sanding is useful not only for natural wood projects, but also for painting and in wood repair.
Also, safety first! Always wear a mask and work glasses when you're sanding. Even if you bag your sawdust, it still gets everywhere.
Picking your sandpaper:
When you're deciding what sandpaper to use, keep in mind the kind of wood you're using and what condition the finish is in. Most projects can get by with a fine grain sandpaper (100 or higher) but if your finish is super rough and there are deeper scratches in the wood, start with a courser grit like a 40 or 60. Just remember that the higher the number, the finer the grit. As you start sanding, either with a sanding block or electric sander, keep checking to see your progress. Don't linger in one spot for too long otherwise you'll create a low spot in your piece and it won't look even when it's finished.
Once you have removed all the finish with your coarse sandpaper, start working your way down to a finer grit such as 220. The fine grit will buff out any remaining shallow scratches and will give your piece a smooth finish.
STAINING
Staining is also a crucial step in coloring your piece. Just like sanding is creating your canvas, staining is your paint color. If you aren't refinishing the whole piece of furniture, make sure to pick a stain that will match the pieces original finish. Rule of thumb that I use is to know what wood you have, and start looking at colors from there. Say it's a golden oak piece, that's usually a good place to start. Sometimes you might have to mix stains to get just the right color, but most stain lines carry a huge selection so that probably won't be necessary. I usually take a picture of the piece in natural light (comparing the color I see on my phone with the color I see in person) and take that with me to the hardware store.
So after you decide on a color, you need to decide what type of stain you want; oil or water based. I'm a big fan of oil-based stain because they are more durable and forgiving. Water-based stains dry more quickly and don't blend as easily while the oil-based ones dry more slowly which allows for a more even color. Oil-based stains are more durable as well in that they create a barrier between the wood and whatever elements the come into contact with.
Applying stain is super easy, and with all products, reading the directions first will tell you everything you need to know. Depending on your stain (oil or water based) choose your paintbrush accordingly. Natural fiber brushes are best for oil-based stains/paints HOWEVER, do not use them for water-based products. They will become limp and floppy (ugh). Synthetic brushes are good for both oil and water-based products so you really can't go wrong there.
Once you have picked your brush, stir your stain well, and often, during the staining process. Depending on which stain you're using and how dark you want the color will depend on how long you leave the stain on. The longer it's on, the darker it gets. Make sure that after you have let it sit the appropriate time, you wipe the stain off evenly (blending as you go) with a lint-free cloth. Be sure to wear gloves when you're staining; it gets messy!
Apply the stain with the grain and make sure to get all the spots covered! Then wipe off. Depending on the stain, you may have to wait 4-6 hours before reapplying (if you want it darker) and up to 24 hours before applying a finish.
FINISHING
Congratulations!! You've made it to the final step!
You may be asking yourself, "Why even use a finish? Isn't the stain enough?". Nope! You need to protect the wood from anything you can throw at it; water, sun, heat...
There are so many types of wood finishes from which to choose! Ugh where do we even start? Well, it all depends on the type of finish you want AND how much time you want to devote to a piece. There are oil and water based finishes just like stains. Water based finishes are easy to clean up, but like water based stains, they tend to dry more quickly and can be trickier to work with. When I first started out finishing pieces, I used Polycrylic which can be tricky in low humidity/warm temp environments. It dried extremely fast here in California and can start balling up with each brush stroke. So I've changed products to tung oil, which I find, is more forgiving and has a fantastic durable finish. It isn't shiny like polyurethane and isn't *as* durable either, but it gives pieces a nice matte finish that you can feel the wood grain through. However, it should be said that polyurethane is the gold standard for finishes and most professional wood workers use it. I'll confess, I have a can of polyurethane but have never used it because it intimidates me. However, if I work up the courage to use it in the future, I'll do a post about it.
So let's put a bow on the two type of finishes for your project: penetrating and surface. Penetrating finishes (like tung oil) worrk just as the name implies; they penetrate the wood from within to seal the piece. They leave a more natural finish, and to me, feel nicer than surface finishes. Surface finishes sit on the surface of your wood and are decidedly more durable, but also feel "fake" (think of those knotty pine lodges you might have stayed in as a kid in the 90s--they were all the rage--and how glossy the wood felt). They're great for surfaces that need more durability because of elements or high-traffic use (cabinets, railings, table tops, etc.). So once you decide which finish is good for your project it's time to pick which subcategory of finish you want.
The main surface finishes are:
If you have any questions, please reach out to me on Instagram @m.jaehomeco or your local hardware store professional.
Happy refinishing!
I'll start off by saying that I was super intimidated to even start thinking abut refinishing furniture. Terrified of screwing up the process (that's how we learn!), make a mistake that couldn't be fixed (that's what paint is for!--a joke...mostly), or getting comfortable with it and having too many projects (that's a given anyway).
So I started off with the gateway drug of furniture restoration; Restor-a-Finish by Howard's. If you don't have any of this yet, run to your local hardware store and pick some up! It fixes most issues you could have with your natural wood finishes; heat rings, water marks, discolored spots, scratches, scuffs, paint splatters... pretty much anything superficial, this product will fix! So after dabbling with RAF, I decided to tackle bigger projects like sanding, staining, and sealing. These projects are more time consuming and involved, but opened up a whole new world of pieces I would have normally passed on.
In my last round of refinishing projects, I took on three mid century pieces (dresser, record cabinet, and desk) and make them like new again. Lucky for me, the dresser needed minimal work (nothing some RAF couldn't fix) but the other two needed to be sanded, stained, and sealed. I know people use strippers to take off old finishes, but I haven't come across any projected that have needed that drastic of a step yet. I find an electric sander takes care of most finishes and leaves a nice surface to stain/seal (plus strippers are super gross and require special disposal).
Ok, so let's break down what really goes into refinishing a piece of furniture:
1. Sanding/stripping
2. Staining
3. Finishing
That's really it!
SANDING
This step is necessary in most refinishing projects (unless you're just going to slap some RAF onto a piece). Sanding give you a clean and smooth canvas to work with and is the most important step. Sanding is useful not only for natural wood projects, but also for painting and in wood repair.Also, safety first! Always wear a mask and work glasses when you're sanding. Even if you bag your sawdust, it still gets everywhere.
When you're deciding what sandpaper to use, keep in mind the kind of wood you're using and what condition the finish is in. Most projects can get by with a fine grain sandpaper (100 or higher) but if your finish is super rough and there are deeper scratches in the wood, start with a courser grit like a 40 or 60. Just remember that the higher the number, the finer the grit. As you start sanding, either with a sanding block or electric sander, keep checking to see your progress. Don't linger in one spot for too long otherwise you'll create a low spot in your piece and it won't look even when it's finished.
Once you have removed all the finish with your coarse sandpaper, start working your way down to a finer grit such as 220. The fine grit will buff out any remaining shallow scratches and will give your piece a smooth finish.
STAINING
Staining is also a crucial step in coloring your piece. Just like sanding is creating your canvas, staining is your paint color. If you aren't refinishing the whole piece of furniture, make sure to pick a stain that will match the pieces original finish. Rule of thumb that I use is to know what wood you have, and start looking at colors from there. Say it's a golden oak piece, that's usually a good place to start. Sometimes you might have to mix stains to get just the right color, but most stain lines carry a huge selection so that probably won't be necessary. I usually take a picture of the piece in natural light (comparing the color I see on my phone with the color I see in person) and take that with me to the hardware store.
Applying stain is super easy, and with all products, reading the directions first will tell you everything you need to know. Depending on your stain (oil or water based) choose your paintbrush accordingly. Natural fiber brushes are best for oil-based stains/paints HOWEVER, do not use them for water-based products. They will become limp and floppy (ugh). Synthetic brushes are good for both oil and water-based products so you really can't go wrong there.
Once you have picked your brush, stir your stain well, and often, during the staining process. Depending on which stain you're using and how dark you want the color will depend on how long you leave the stain on. The longer it's on, the darker it gets. Make sure that after you have let it sit the appropriate time, you wipe the stain off evenly (blending as you go) with a lint-free cloth. Be sure to wear gloves when you're staining; it gets messy!
Apply the stain with the grain and make sure to get all the spots covered! Then wipe off. Depending on the stain, you may have to wait 4-6 hours before reapplying (if you want it darker) and up to 24 hours before applying a finish.
FINISHING
Congratulations!! You've made it to the final step!
You may be asking yourself, "Why even use a finish? Isn't the stain enough?". Nope! You need to protect the wood from anything you can throw at it; water, sun, heat...
There are so many types of wood finishes from which to choose! Ugh where do we even start? Well, it all depends on the type of finish you want AND how much time you want to devote to a piece. There are oil and water based finishes just like stains. Water based finishes are easy to clean up, but like water based stains, they tend to dry more quickly and can be trickier to work with. When I first started out finishing pieces, I used Polycrylic which can be tricky in low humidity/warm temp environments. It dried extremely fast here in California and can start balling up with each brush stroke. So I've changed products to tung oil, which I find, is more forgiving and has a fantastic durable finish. It isn't shiny like polyurethane and isn't *as* durable either, but it gives pieces a nice matte finish that you can feel the wood grain through. However, it should be said that polyurethane is the gold standard for finishes and most professional wood workers use it. I'll confess, I have a can of polyurethane but have never used it because it intimidates me. However, if I work up the courage to use it in the future, I'll do a post about it.
So let's put a bow on the two type of finishes for your project: penetrating and surface. Penetrating finishes (like tung oil) worrk just as the name implies; they penetrate the wood from within to seal the piece. They leave a more natural finish, and to me, feel nicer than surface finishes. Surface finishes sit on the surface of your wood and are decidedly more durable, but also feel "fake" (think of those knotty pine lodges you might have stayed in as a kid in the 90s--they were all the rage--and how glossy the wood felt). They're great for surfaces that need more durability because of elements or high-traffic use (cabinets, railings, table tops, etc.). So once you decide which finish is good for your project it's time to pick which subcategory of finish you want.
The main surface finishes are:
- polyurethane (oil based)/polycrylic (water based)
- wax
- varnish
- shellac
- tung oil
- mineral oil
- linseed oil
- butcher block oil
If you have any questions, please reach out to me on Instagram @m.jaehomeco or your local hardware store professional.
Happy refinishing!
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